Journals 5-9
5. The Enchanted Eastside:
On Friday September 26th, we explored the Eastside of Manhattan which was truly captivating. As stated in Essential New York, this area is a multicultural melting pot filled with brownstones, upscale apartment complexes, Projects, schools, parks and restaurants. The main communities are East Harlem, Morningside Heights and Harlem, each harboring their own populations that share common beliefs, cultures, history and social institutions. The text expresses how each of these communities have undergone troubling obstacles of financial uprise and downfall that have helped to mark unique histories among them. Similarly, each community is in the process of experiencing gentrification and the changes that accompany this movement.
Our first stop was to East Harlem which is also known as Spanish Harlem or 'El Barrio'. East Harlem houses one of the largest communities of Latino people. I loved it here. East Harlem was very cozy and welcoming. The people in this community were helpful, pleasant and familiar. It seemed like the whole city was a huge family. Walking around the neighborhood we saw people talking, playing dominos, telling jokes, smiling faces and felt a sense of security. Everyone seemed to know one another, it was like a big family of families living in a common area. The East Harlem of today is much more safe to live as opposed to the East Harlem of the 60s and 70s. Essential New York states that after World War 1 a swarm of impoverished Puerto Ricans came to East Harlem who went on to construct new housing projects that intensified crime; this made East Harlem one of the most dangerous sections of NYC with the highest rates of poverty, unemployment, and corruption. We visited the George Washington Carver Housing Projects. These apartment complexes we learned were built for low income families. These projects are seen less around the city and with the process of gentrification many have been broken down to make space for nicer apartments and buildings in the area. We learned that project complexes throughout are in the process of becoming extinct.
We visited The Museum of the city of New York which was founded in 1923 that was first housed in Gracie Mansion. The museum was grand and full of exhibitions that each held a piece of NYC history. We watched a film about the history of NYC that was very informative and uplifting. I learned about the railroad systems and how it came about as well as the snotty rich upper class of NYC of the 19th century. After the film we explored the museum, we got to see many paintings and pictures all relevant to NYC. This museum alone held so much of New York City's history and I believe it is a great place to start any historical search regarding NYC. We ventured into the Gilded New York exhibition, where we saw beautiful pieces of jewelry, old fashioned fans, whistles, old gowns and housewares from the Gracie Mansion. I'm sure that each of those items are worth many millions of dollars. I enjoyed this museum and experiencing NYC from beginning to present through its history.
We then stopped at El Museo del Barrio which was founded in 1969 in a public school classroom in PS 125 by a Puerto Rican activist from East Harlem as per Essential New York. This museum is the heart of the Puerto Rican culture as well as other Latin cultures and Caribbean cultures. The museum was very colorful and lively. It had a fun and vibrant atmosphere. We met with Luke a Puerto Rican peace poet at El Museo del Barrio. He was an amazing tour guide, he was very passionate about art, his people and his culture. He performed one of his poems for us and it was very uplifting. He brought us all together as one big family and produced a sense of peace and calm among us. He took us around East Harlem and gave us a better understanding of the Latino culture and their impact on the city. We stopped to observe the neighborhoods and the people performing different activities all around us. He stopped a couple of people having lunch to ask how they felt about East Harlem. The people were very receptive and willing to speak highly of the city even though a swarm of us came and interrupted their lunch. We visited the Modesto "Tin" Flores Garden which was originally a vacant lot and dumping ground. It was transformed into a garden by Ernesto 'Tin' Flores for the people of the community to enjoy and escape to (Essential New York). It is similar to the many gardens of Puerto Rico, Mexico and many other Latin countries that provide a 'back home' feel to the residents. It is their very own oasis. In this garden we saw an angelic mural titled, 'Soldadares' by Yasmin Hernandez. This mural depicts a Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and Puerto Rican poet Julia de Burgos with their hands and hearts entwined along with their native flags behind them. Three babies in utero are shown at the top of the mural one at the right, middle and left, they represent the lost babies of the two women depicted as well as the artist. This painting shows that these two women are in sync and accepting of each other as a people regardless of their backgrounds. They are one in heart and spirit and powerful together. This is a profound mural and it speaks volumes. At the center of the garden was a sculpture of a huge set of fallopian tubes which represent life, procreation and the power and strength of women. We saw many other murals and paintings on the sides of buildings and upon the walls of stores and restaurants throughout the city. They each showed the rich Latin culture in a different light and level of understanding of this powerful peoples' existence. We went to a spiritual shop named Justo Botanica. Inside was filled with potions, mixtures, necklaces , bracelets, candles, books and more all for the purpose of enriching one's spiritual well being. The owner relayed to us that his store was opened for over 40 years and people all around visited him for spiritual guidance. I bought a skull bracelet which is said to bring on good luck, he put it on my wrist and prayed for me, hope my luck gets better and better with this bracelet. Luke our tour guide left us after the spiritual shop and showed us where to get lunch. We stopped at a Dominican Restaurant, I had rice and beans with baked chicken and a spanish cola which was very tasty.
Our last stop was to Central Park which was created in 1873 and has been a huge attraction to date. I had not been to Central Park before so this opportunity was a treat. I saw horse carriages, beautiful landscaping, sculptures, lakes and artists all around the park. The park is very spacious and historical. The park runs from 59th street to 110th street. With the daily chaos of the city, Central Park is a great place to go and unwind, enjoy the scenery and relax. Bikers and joggers were everywhere, mom's with babies and strollers, tourists, class tours, and everyone in between were around enjoying the beauty of the park. One could easily get caught up and lost in here. The Central Park Reservoir is the place for runners where you can view the uptown skyline. The Passageway beneath Bethesda Terrace is a beautiful site that leads to the Lake. There were many lovely gardens around the park. My favorite piece was the Bethesda Fountain. It is really spectacular. The park did not house any restaurants, bistros or bars but there were a number of vendors around selling ice cream, pretzels and hotdogs. With all the attractions around the food aspect did not matter much. I'm glad I finally made it to Central Park. The Eastside was a prize, I hope the Westside is just as rewarding!
On Friday September 26th, we explored the Eastside of Manhattan which was truly captivating. As stated in Essential New York, this area is a multicultural melting pot filled with brownstones, upscale apartment complexes, Projects, schools, parks and restaurants. The main communities are East Harlem, Morningside Heights and Harlem, each harboring their own populations that share common beliefs, cultures, history and social institutions. The text expresses how each of these communities have undergone troubling obstacles of financial uprise and downfall that have helped to mark unique histories among them. Similarly, each community is in the process of experiencing gentrification and the changes that accompany this movement.
Our first stop was to East Harlem which is also known as Spanish Harlem or 'El Barrio'. East Harlem houses one of the largest communities of Latino people. I loved it here. East Harlem was very cozy and welcoming. The people in this community were helpful, pleasant and familiar. It seemed like the whole city was a huge family. Walking around the neighborhood we saw people talking, playing dominos, telling jokes, smiling faces and felt a sense of security. Everyone seemed to know one another, it was like a big family of families living in a common area. The East Harlem of today is much more safe to live as opposed to the East Harlem of the 60s and 70s. Essential New York states that after World War 1 a swarm of impoverished Puerto Ricans came to East Harlem who went on to construct new housing projects that intensified crime; this made East Harlem one of the most dangerous sections of NYC with the highest rates of poverty, unemployment, and corruption. We visited the George Washington Carver Housing Projects. These apartment complexes we learned were built for low income families. These projects are seen less around the city and with the process of gentrification many have been broken down to make space for nicer apartments and buildings in the area. We learned that project complexes throughout are in the process of becoming extinct.
We visited The Museum of the city of New York which was founded in 1923 that was first housed in Gracie Mansion. The museum was grand and full of exhibitions that each held a piece of NYC history. We watched a film about the history of NYC that was very informative and uplifting. I learned about the railroad systems and how it came about as well as the snotty rich upper class of NYC of the 19th century. After the film we explored the museum, we got to see many paintings and pictures all relevant to NYC. This museum alone held so much of New York City's history and I believe it is a great place to start any historical search regarding NYC. We ventured into the Gilded New York exhibition, where we saw beautiful pieces of jewelry, old fashioned fans, whistles, old gowns and housewares from the Gracie Mansion. I'm sure that each of those items are worth many millions of dollars. I enjoyed this museum and experiencing NYC from beginning to present through its history.
We then stopped at El Museo del Barrio which was founded in 1969 in a public school classroom in PS 125 by a Puerto Rican activist from East Harlem as per Essential New York. This museum is the heart of the Puerto Rican culture as well as other Latin cultures and Caribbean cultures. The museum was very colorful and lively. It had a fun and vibrant atmosphere. We met with Luke a Puerto Rican peace poet at El Museo del Barrio. He was an amazing tour guide, he was very passionate about art, his people and his culture. He performed one of his poems for us and it was very uplifting. He brought us all together as one big family and produced a sense of peace and calm among us. He took us around East Harlem and gave us a better understanding of the Latino culture and their impact on the city. We stopped to observe the neighborhoods and the people performing different activities all around us. He stopped a couple of people having lunch to ask how they felt about East Harlem. The people were very receptive and willing to speak highly of the city even though a swarm of us came and interrupted their lunch. We visited the Modesto "Tin" Flores Garden which was originally a vacant lot and dumping ground. It was transformed into a garden by Ernesto 'Tin' Flores for the people of the community to enjoy and escape to (Essential New York). It is similar to the many gardens of Puerto Rico, Mexico and many other Latin countries that provide a 'back home' feel to the residents. It is their very own oasis. In this garden we saw an angelic mural titled, 'Soldadares' by Yasmin Hernandez. This mural depicts a Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and Puerto Rican poet Julia de Burgos with their hands and hearts entwined along with their native flags behind them. Three babies in utero are shown at the top of the mural one at the right, middle and left, they represent the lost babies of the two women depicted as well as the artist. This painting shows that these two women are in sync and accepting of each other as a people regardless of their backgrounds. They are one in heart and spirit and powerful together. This is a profound mural and it speaks volumes. At the center of the garden was a sculpture of a huge set of fallopian tubes which represent life, procreation and the power and strength of women. We saw many other murals and paintings on the sides of buildings and upon the walls of stores and restaurants throughout the city. They each showed the rich Latin culture in a different light and level of understanding of this powerful peoples' existence. We went to a spiritual shop named Justo Botanica. Inside was filled with potions, mixtures, necklaces , bracelets, candles, books and more all for the purpose of enriching one's spiritual well being. The owner relayed to us that his store was opened for over 40 years and people all around visited him for spiritual guidance. I bought a skull bracelet which is said to bring on good luck, he put it on my wrist and prayed for me, hope my luck gets better and better with this bracelet. Luke our tour guide left us after the spiritual shop and showed us where to get lunch. We stopped at a Dominican Restaurant, I had rice and beans with baked chicken and a spanish cola which was very tasty.
Our last stop was to Central Park which was created in 1873 and has been a huge attraction to date. I had not been to Central Park before so this opportunity was a treat. I saw horse carriages, beautiful landscaping, sculptures, lakes and artists all around the park. The park is very spacious and historical. The park runs from 59th street to 110th street. With the daily chaos of the city, Central Park is a great place to go and unwind, enjoy the scenery and relax. Bikers and joggers were everywhere, mom's with babies and strollers, tourists, class tours, and everyone in between were around enjoying the beauty of the park. One could easily get caught up and lost in here. The Central Park Reservoir is the place for runners where you can view the uptown skyline. The Passageway beneath Bethesda Terrace is a beautiful site that leads to the Lake. There were many lovely gardens around the park. My favorite piece was the Bethesda Fountain. It is really spectacular. The park did not house any restaurants, bistros or bars but there were a number of vendors around selling ice cream, pretzels and hotdogs. With all the attractions around the food aspect did not matter much. I'm glad I finally made it to Central Park. The Eastside was a prize, I hope the Westside is just as rewarding!
6. The Wild, Wild West Side
Friday October 3rd 2014, we were set to tour the West Side of the city, however, not before visiting the Upper Eastside to the Frick Collection Museum. This museum is located on 1 East 70th Street close to Central Park (ENY). This museum is humungous, it is a 104 room mansion which belonged to the wealthy Frick family of the Gilded Era. The Frick's moved into this mansion in October of 1914. We toured several of the rooms of this mansion and admired a lot of the artwork that belonged to this family. This particular wealthy family, among many others, strived to compete with their counterparts. Each family hosted grandiose dinner parties and masquerades which their guests would attend and take note to plan a more elaborate function soon after. The Frick's started to entertain in May of 1914. The Dining Room which is now full of many paintings and other works of art; in the past had a live in organist, harpist, and soprano singer. The plan was usually to invite about 26 guests as an ideal number but would easily increase to 40 guests. They had six course dinners prepared by their very own famous French chef who also resided in the mansion . The dining room contained French tables that could be opened up to fit over 20 people. They utilized expensive georgian silverware fit for royalty. It was interesting to see how the rich of the early 20th century lived. They were ostentatious and fond of artwork, not so different from the rich of Hollywood! Their was a Men's retreat room where the men would retire to after dinner. It was a pastoral space, dark and powerful. This room is very big and contained impressive contemporary French style paintings encased in wood frames which made the figures stick out more. Henry Clay Frick, the man of the house was a true lover of art who traveled all over the world in search of rare paintings. There was a great gallery within the mansion, Mr. Frick wanted this room to be very long and spacious. He wanted his gallery to be bigger than his fellow associates and rivals galleries. His gallery accommodated numerous paintings and artwork from around the globe. The gallery was Mr. Frick's safe haven, when he had trouble sleeping he would come down to the gallery and walk around, study the paintings and connect with the works of art. He would create a deep connection and bond with his paintings until he felt a sense of ease and sleep would overtake him. I found this bit of information unusual yet admirable because I find getting lost in art and creating a relationship with it is a much better addiction than alcohol or recreational drugs.
Next stop was a walk through Central Park, we stopped at the Lincoln Center to admire the most beautiful chandelier that I have ever seen. It is massive and a great sight to behold; the lights surrounding it looked like bright sparkling diamonds. We stopped to have lunch at the Yum Yum 2 Thai Restaurant. This was my first time trying Thai food so I was excited for this chance. I had A Thai Iced Tea, spring rolls for an appetizer and the main dish was panang curry chicken with white rice. The meal was enjoyable but the iced tea was too sweet and thick. After lunch we headed over to Central Harlem for our tour with Jim who was very knowledgeable on NYC and it's history, especially Harlem.
According to Essential New York, Central Harlem houses some of the city's most religious and cultural institutions and finest sustained residential streets. I've always thought of Harlem as very busy, loud and crowded just like most of Manhattan however, this was not the case in Central Harlem. The city was full of culture and rich history. It was surprisingly very diverse as well. The people of Harlem were inviting and pleasant similar to that of East Harlem. We saw the YMCA building and visited the Mother AME Zion Church on West 137th street. ENY discusses that the church was built in 1796 by a group of Methodists. This church is the oldest African American Church in the state of NY. The church was originally located in lower Manhattan and eventually ended up in Harlem following the migration of Blacks there. We passed the Harlem Hospital Center and located on the walls of the hospital was a gorgeous mural that definitely made you halt in its presence to adore the picture. It is a profound message that captures the audience and displays the words 'Know your rights' as well as many other encouraging quotes. You can almost feel the passion and energy radiating from the grand mural which we learned was a part of the WPA works project. We walked to Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Frederick Douglas Boulevards to Striver's Row. ENY expresses that this area has the most preserved row-houses of the city which were purchased in 1890 from Equitable Life Assurance Society by a contractor named David H. King. His plan was to build homes of different architectural designs for the upper middle class white families. The homes did not sell as he planned and after the economic depression; black families were allowed to purchase these homes at $8,000 in 1919, mostly black leaders. We ventured off to the Harlem Walk of Fame which was commissioned by the Harlem Chamber of Commerce in 1995. According to ENY, the walk contains various bronze plaque designs created by Otto Neals and Ogundipe Fayoumi to honor noble African Americans who have renowned contributions in music, science, the arts, and public service. These plaques were very unique to each individual portrayed. This strip was a precious historical site dating back to the Harlem Renaissance and holds a great part in African American history and the history of Harlem. Lastly, a few of us stopped at Sylvia's Soul Food Restaurant in Harlem and enjoyed a delicious dinner of smothered and fried chicken, collard greens, macaroni and cheese, corn bread and the best red velvet cake I've had in a while. Harlem was a treat, I loved the atmosphere and vibe of the city. The people were warm and welcoming and the history of this city was extremely profound. NYC is so full of antiquity and modernistic qualities. The diversity is amazing; learning about the different parts of the city have been undoubtedly fascinating. I am proud and lucky to live in the state of New York and have NYC as my city where everything is attainable, dreams are realized and foreigners dream to visit, in this lovely city that never sleeps.
Friday October 3rd 2014, we were set to tour the West Side of the city, however, not before visiting the Upper Eastside to the Frick Collection Museum. This museum is located on 1 East 70th Street close to Central Park (ENY). This museum is humungous, it is a 104 room mansion which belonged to the wealthy Frick family of the Gilded Era. The Frick's moved into this mansion in October of 1914. We toured several of the rooms of this mansion and admired a lot of the artwork that belonged to this family. This particular wealthy family, among many others, strived to compete with their counterparts. Each family hosted grandiose dinner parties and masquerades which their guests would attend and take note to plan a more elaborate function soon after. The Frick's started to entertain in May of 1914. The Dining Room which is now full of many paintings and other works of art; in the past had a live in organist, harpist, and soprano singer. The plan was usually to invite about 26 guests as an ideal number but would easily increase to 40 guests. They had six course dinners prepared by their very own famous French chef who also resided in the mansion . The dining room contained French tables that could be opened up to fit over 20 people. They utilized expensive georgian silverware fit for royalty. It was interesting to see how the rich of the early 20th century lived. They were ostentatious and fond of artwork, not so different from the rich of Hollywood! Their was a Men's retreat room where the men would retire to after dinner. It was a pastoral space, dark and powerful. This room is very big and contained impressive contemporary French style paintings encased in wood frames which made the figures stick out more. Henry Clay Frick, the man of the house was a true lover of art who traveled all over the world in search of rare paintings. There was a great gallery within the mansion, Mr. Frick wanted this room to be very long and spacious. He wanted his gallery to be bigger than his fellow associates and rivals galleries. His gallery accommodated numerous paintings and artwork from around the globe. The gallery was Mr. Frick's safe haven, when he had trouble sleeping he would come down to the gallery and walk around, study the paintings and connect with the works of art. He would create a deep connection and bond with his paintings until he felt a sense of ease and sleep would overtake him. I found this bit of information unusual yet admirable because I find getting lost in art and creating a relationship with it is a much better addiction than alcohol or recreational drugs.
Next stop was a walk through Central Park, we stopped at the Lincoln Center to admire the most beautiful chandelier that I have ever seen. It is massive and a great sight to behold; the lights surrounding it looked like bright sparkling diamonds. We stopped to have lunch at the Yum Yum 2 Thai Restaurant. This was my first time trying Thai food so I was excited for this chance. I had A Thai Iced Tea, spring rolls for an appetizer and the main dish was panang curry chicken with white rice. The meal was enjoyable but the iced tea was too sweet and thick. After lunch we headed over to Central Harlem for our tour with Jim who was very knowledgeable on NYC and it's history, especially Harlem.
According to Essential New York, Central Harlem houses some of the city's most religious and cultural institutions and finest sustained residential streets. I've always thought of Harlem as very busy, loud and crowded just like most of Manhattan however, this was not the case in Central Harlem. The city was full of culture and rich history. It was surprisingly very diverse as well. The people of Harlem were inviting and pleasant similar to that of East Harlem. We saw the YMCA building and visited the Mother AME Zion Church on West 137th street. ENY discusses that the church was built in 1796 by a group of Methodists. This church is the oldest African American Church in the state of NY. The church was originally located in lower Manhattan and eventually ended up in Harlem following the migration of Blacks there. We passed the Harlem Hospital Center and located on the walls of the hospital was a gorgeous mural that definitely made you halt in its presence to adore the picture. It is a profound message that captures the audience and displays the words 'Know your rights' as well as many other encouraging quotes. You can almost feel the passion and energy radiating from the grand mural which we learned was a part of the WPA works project. We walked to Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Frederick Douglas Boulevards to Striver's Row. ENY expresses that this area has the most preserved row-houses of the city which were purchased in 1890 from Equitable Life Assurance Society by a contractor named David H. King. His plan was to build homes of different architectural designs for the upper middle class white families. The homes did not sell as he planned and after the economic depression; black families were allowed to purchase these homes at $8,000 in 1919, mostly black leaders. We ventured off to the Harlem Walk of Fame which was commissioned by the Harlem Chamber of Commerce in 1995. According to ENY, the walk contains various bronze plaque designs created by Otto Neals and Ogundipe Fayoumi to honor noble African Americans who have renowned contributions in music, science, the arts, and public service. These plaques were very unique to each individual portrayed. This strip was a precious historical site dating back to the Harlem Renaissance and holds a great part in African American history and the history of Harlem. Lastly, a few of us stopped at Sylvia's Soul Food Restaurant in Harlem and enjoyed a delicious dinner of smothered and fried chicken, collard greens, macaroni and cheese, corn bread and the best red velvet cake I've had in a while. Harlem was a treat, I loved the atmosphere and vibe of the city. The people were warm and welcoming and the history of this city was extremely profound. NYC is so full of antiquity and modernistic qualities. The diversity is amazing; learning about the different parts of the city have been undoubtedly fascinating. I am proud and lucky to live in the state of New York and have NYC as my city where everything is attainable, dreams are realized and foreigners dream to visit, in this lovely city that never sleeps.
7. Lower Manhattan
Friday October 10th 2014 we met up as usual in Penn Station and took the 3 train to Lower Manhattan. The ride there was quick and rugged. According to Essential New York, Lower Manhattan is 'where it all began' for the city of New York. Lower Manhattan is where the Dutch established their community in 1624 called Nieuw Amsterdam, they built many wooden and brick homes that sadly are not in existence today. Lower Manhattan is historically native to New York Government and, for a short time, the Capital of the USA between 1785-1790. This is home to one of the primary financial districts to which we know as Wall Street along with many other major corporations that are all within altitudinous skyscrapers competing against one another.
Upon arriving to Lower Manhattan we saw the Woolworth building which was built in 1913. Next we ventured over to City Hall Park which we learned used to be called Common Green. New York City Hall is behind the park and we learned that it houses the Mayor and City Council offices. We admired the Municipal Building which is directly across Centre Street. ENY states that this building is one of the largest governmental buildings in the world. There were approximately 18,000 people married each year in the Manhattan Marriage Bureau section of the Municipal building until it was removed in 2009. There are 13 municipal agencies of New York within the building. On the ceilings of the Mozart buildings there is Guastavino tile work, ENY expresses that this method is used to support arches and vaults using interlocking terra cotta tiles that were invented by Raphael Guastavino. He has this special tile work on other buildings such as City Hall subway station, Grant's Tomb and Grand Central Station Oyster Bar and Restaurant. We stopped by the City Store where they had many gift bags and trinkets with NYC etched onto the objects.
Following were the City Courts, The Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse and The New York State Supreme Court. Thurgood Marshall Court on 40 Foley Square was designed by Cass Gilbert and finished by his son Cass Gilbert Jr. in 1936. The court was initially named Foley Square Courthouse but was renamed in honor of Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall in 2001 who served as a judge there from 1961-1965. The courthouse is two buildings in one with a base fashioned after Neoclassical structure with long granite steps that leads to the buildings entrance. An architectural critic named Lewis Mumford castigated the building as a bad design and fake grandeur due to its form (ENY). The New York State Supreme Court built in 1927 is another Neoclassical building. This building is faced with granite on six sides and dominated by a huge Corinthian colonnade topped with a traditional frieze. It is a magnificent structure.
Next up was a tour of the City Hall from Gale Cornell. She was very cognizant and passionate about the structure. New York City Hall, which was built in 1811, is the oldest City Hall in the US (ENY). We learned that City Hall is a symbolic center of NYC. It is a 202 year old building that was built after the War of Independence. Gale informed us that the Declaration of Independence was heard at this very location back on July 9th, 1776. The land that City Hall occupies today used to be a strip of many different configurations such as, a jail, ohm's house, shelter, infirmary and a debtors house designed to penalize the rich who neglected to pay their bills. The building is a Neo-classical design which faces South and is 1000 feet wide. Upon entering we were greeted with a very elegant interior that captivated us. There is a rotunda beneath the buildings coffered dome which is supported by ten Corinthian columns. The square shape of the exterior hides the dome within the building that serves to surprise the visitor. There stands a huge bronze statue of George Washington in the lobby. The staircase is made in solid marble which appears as if they are floating in an omega shape. The steps are inserted in the wall compressed against each other locked into place with rounded edges to prevent any injuries while walking up and down them. The stairs led us to a series of rooms, the first room being the City Council Chamber. In this room we saw a podium like structure surrounded by chairs and a grand area with seats for the many meetings that take place in here. What struck me the most was the big mural on the ceiling. There was a woman in red in the center of the mural which symbolizes lady NY on the Brooklyn bridge. The Governor's Room contained many paintings of past presidents and important figure heads. We learned that Abraham Lincoln once stood in this very room and shook hands for eight hours. He was loved by the people and he loved them in return. City Hall was very impressive and it was an honor to be able to see the interior and learn of the background of this historical jewel.
We arrived at the African Burial Ground National Monument located on the first floor of the Ted Weiss Federal Building on 290 Broadway between Duane and Reade Streets. This Monument was extremely profound. I remember hearing of this location as a little girl but to be able to view the sculptures and paintings within this buildings actually gave me goosebumps and a chill. We watched a movie in the theater that spoke of how harshly blacks were treated. They would fall ill and die or get killed and their friends and relatives wanted to give them a proper burial. During the construction of the Ted Weiss building, a number of corpses were found underground which were planned to be discarded in order to continue the project at hand however, many African Americans in the City at the time vehemently opposed the idea. After countless protests, meetings and arguments followed by anger, stress and undeniable endurance, the African Burial Ground Monument was created to honor the black slaves that played a huge role in the development of NYC. This museum hit home which I felt truly demonstrated perseverance of a strong group of individuals. The acts inflicted upon blacks at the early stages of the development of NYC were abominable and will forever live within the history of this people and it was rewarding to know that this monument lives on to tell the story. Along the way we visited Saint Paul's Chapel, Trinity Church and the World Trade Center Memorial. The memorial caused a deep sadness and grief within it that was difficult to escape. There were two 30 foot waterfalls which are the largest manmade waterfalls in the US. The waterfalls descend into the pools which drain into a center void depicting death. Around the edges of the structure are the names of the victims who were killed on September 11th, 2001 (ENY). Being in this atmosphere brought depressing thoughts and feelings, it felt as if the horrible events of that unforgettable day happened yesterday. I was happy to have been able to see the memorial but I don't think it is a place that I want to revisit. The gloominess in this area was too much to bear. This weeks class was eventful and a bit depressing towards the end yet informative and impactful in its own way. The history of NYC was not always pleasant so it is important to learn of the good and the bad as well as all the hidden secrets that all helped to shape the NYC of today. Next week is our last class and I really wish it did not have to end so soon!
Friday October 10th 2014 we met up as usual in Penn Station and took the 3 train to Lower Manhattan. The ride there was quick and rugged. According to Essential New York, Lower Manhattan is 'where it all began' for the city of New York. Lower Manhattan is where the Dutch established their community in 1624 called Nieuw Amsterdam, they built many wooden and brick homes that sadly are not in existence today. Lower Manhattan is historically native to New York Government and, for a short time, the Capital of the USA between 1785-1790. This is home to one of the primary financial districts to which we know as Wall Street along with many other major corporations that are all within altitudinous skyscrapers competing against one another.
Upon arriving to Lower Manhattan we saw the Woolworth building which was built in 1913. Next we ventured over to City Hall Park which we learned used to be called Common Green. New York City Hall is behind the park and we learned that it houses the Mayor and City Council offices. We admired the Municipal Building which is directly across Centre Street. ENY states that this building is one of the largest governmental buildings in the world. There were approximately 18,000 people married each year in the Manhattan Marriage Bureau section of the Municipal building until it was removed in 2009. There are 13 municipal agencies of New York within the building. On the ceilings of the Mozart buildings there is Guastavino tile work, ENY expresses that this method is used to support arches and vaults using interlocking terra cotta tiles that were invented by Raphael Guastavino. He has this special tile work on other buildings such as City Hall subway station, Grant's Tomb and Grand Central Station Oyster Bar and Restaurant. We stopped by the City Store where they had many gift bags and trinkets with NYC etched onto the objects.
Following were the City Courts, The Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse and The New York State Supreme Court. Thurgood Marshall Court on 40 Foley Square was designed by Cass Gilbert and finished by his son Cass Gilbert Jr. in 1936. The court was initially named Foley Square Courthouse but was renamed in honor of Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall in 2001 who served as a judge there from 1961-1965. The courthouse is two buildings in one with a base fashioned after Neoclassical structure with long granite steps that leads to the buildings entrance. An architectural critic named Lewis Mumford castigated the building as a bad design and fake grandeur due to its form (ENY). The New York State Supreme Court built in 1927 is another Neoclassical building. This building is faced with granite on six sides and dominated by a huge Corinthian colonnade topped with a traditional frieze. It is a magnificent structure.
Next up was a tour of the City Hall from Gale Cornell. She was very cognizant and passionate about the structure. New York City Hall, which was built in 1811, is the oldest City Hall in the US (ENY). We learned that City Hall is a symbolic center of NYC. It is a 202 year old building that was built after the War of Independence. Gale informed us that the Declaration of Independence was heard at this very location back on July 9th, 1776. The land that City Hall occupies today used to be a strip of many different configurations such as, a jail, ohm's house, shelter, infirmary and a debtors house designed to penalize the rich who neglected to pay their bills. The building is a Neo-classical design which faces South and is 1000 feet wide. Upon entering we were greeted with a very elegant interior that captivated us. There is a rotunda beneath the buildings coffered dome which is supported by ten Corinthian columns. The square shape of the exterior hides the dome within the building that serves to surprise the visitor. There stands a huge bronze statue of George Washington in the lobby. The staircase is made in solid marble which appears as if they are floating in an omega shape. The steps are inserted in the wall compressed against each other locked into place with rounded edges to prevent any injuries while walking up and down them. The stairs led us to a series of rooms, the first room being the City Council Chamber. In this room we saw a podium like structure surrounded by chairs and a grand area with seats for the many meetings that take place in here. What struck me the most was the big mural on the ceiling. There was a woman in red in the center of the mural which symbolizes lady NY on the Brooklyn bridge. The Governor's Room contained many paintings of past presidents and important figure heads. We learned that Abraham Lincoln once stood in this very room and shook hands for eight hours. He was loved by the people and he loved them in return. City Hall was very impressive and it was an honor to be able to see the interior and learn of the background of this historical jewel.
We arrived at the African Burial Ground National Monument located on the first floor of the Ted Weiss Federal Building on 290 Broadway between Duane and Reade Streets. This Monument was extremely profound. I remember hearing of this location as a little girl but to be able to view the sculptures and paintings within this buildings actually gave me goosebumps and a chill. We watched a movie in the theater that spoke of how harshly blacks were treated. They would fall ill and die or get killed and their friends and relatives wanted to give them a proper burial. During the construction of the Ted Weiss building, a number of corpses were found underground which were planned to be discarded in order to continue the project at hand however, many African Americans in the City at the time vehemently opposed the idea. After countless protests, meetings and arguments followed by anger, stress and undeniable endurance, the African Burial Ground Monument was created to honor the black slaves that played a huge role in the development of NYC. This museum hit home which I felt truly demonstrated perseverance of a strong group of individuals. The acts inflicted upon blacks at the early stages of the development of NYC were abominable and will forever live within the history of this people and it was rewarding to know that this monument lives on to tell the story. Along the way we visited Saint Paul's Chapel, Trinity Church and the World Trade Center Memorial. The memorial caused a deep sadness and grief within it that was difficult to escape. There were two 30 foot waterfalls which are the largest manmade waterfalls in the US. The waterfalls descend into the pools which drain into a center void depicting death. Around the edges of the structure are the names of the victims who were killed on September 11th, 2001 (ENY). Being in this atmosphere brought depressing thoughts and feelings, it felt as if the horrible events of that unforgettable day happened yesterday. I was happy to have been able to see the memorial but I don't think it is a place that I want to revisit. The gloominess in this area was too much to bear. This weeks class was eventful and a bit depressing towards the end yet informative and impactful in its own way. The history of NYC was not always pleasant so it is important to learn of the good and the bad as well as all the hidden secrets that all helped to shape the NYC of today. Next week is our last class and I really wish it did not have to end so soon!
8. Immigrant New York
On Friday October 17th, 2014, my fellow gothamites and I met up at Penn Station as usual and prepared to tour Immigrant New York. Today is our last class and I must admit that this realization was a bit saddening. As convenient as this course is being only 7 weeks, I do enjoy the tours and fun times around the city with Mike and Meritta as well as my classmates. These past 6 classes have been a cool experience. All mushiness aside, we still had an adventurous day ahead of us and it all started with a ride on the F train to Delancy Street. We arrived in the Lower East Side which is located on the southeastern part of Manhattan Island. According to Essential New York, millions of immigrants flooded into New York in the 19th century trying to escape famine, war, and corruption of their native countries. People came in from Germany, Ireland, Italy, North Africa, Spain, and the largest population of people were Ashkenazi Jews from Russia and Eastern Europe. The Ashkenazi Jews gave the neighborhood it's cultural disposition. By 1924 there were two and a half million Ashkenazi Jews in the Unites States, especially the Lower Eastside. This explains why there was such a strong Jewish influence and dominant presence in the Lower Eastside. This area was termed the most densely populated placed in the world of the 1900s.
We visited the Lower Eastside Tenement Museum located on 103 Orchard Street off of Delancey Street. The 1863 tenement was carefully and meticulously conserved and transformed into a museum for visitors to see how the Ashkenazi Jews lived in the 19th century. We had a very amicable and passionate tour guide named Berto Chavez. He showed us around the museum and introduced us to the late Lavine family. Harris Lavine and his wife Jenny Lavine lived in the tenement building dating back to 1863 with their 5 children. Their apartment consisted of a smal kitchen and one bedroom. Harris was also the owner of a sweatshop that he operated from the apartment. One could imagine how crowded and hot that tiny apartment would become especially in the summer months. Harris was a contractor who mass produced dresses, there was a presser who ironed the dresses, a baster, a sewing machine operator, and a finisher to put the final touches on the garments. There was a great deal of competition within this type of business, just across the street another sweatshop was in business. On Harris' block alone there were about 23 garment factories by 1890. They would work 60 hours a week, 10 hours a day in very poor conditions. There was poor lighting, at the time all they had were kerosene lamps. There were no bathrooms, therefore, if someone had to use the facilities, there was a chamber pot in the room for that purpose. The children would run around the apartment. Jenny had to compromise her kitchen space while cooking because the presser was sharing the space with her to iron the dresses. There was also a mattress on the side in the kitchen; must have been very annoying to anyone who wanted to sleep with all of the action going on in the house. Jenny also had to fetch water from outside for cooking and bathing and coal from elsewhere for heating. I imagine that there were many disagreements between Jenny and the workers, having to raise 5 children in a cramped apartment and share it with 5 extra people who worked with her husband must have been irritating. There were 75 dresses made in a week which were shipped to dress shops for the upper class women to purchase for $10-$13 a piece. Harris made about four cents to a dollar on each dress. After paying the workers, money left over was for rent, groceries, and whatever expenses for the kids. The work week was from Sunday to Friday and the Sabbath was observed on Saturdays. Many Jews worked for Mr. Lavine because of this advantage as opposed to working in the city where Saturday work days were mandatory. Saturday could be spent with the family and for religious observances. Another advantage of having the factory operated in the home was that, Harris was able to be with his family more and be able to see his children grow. The Lavine family ran the sweatshop for 12 years and ended up moving to Brooklyn in 1904 where they eventually became middle class and had succeeded in living their American Dream that all started in Lower Eastside NYC. We visited another apartment owned by the Rogershefski family that had a similar story to that of the Lavine family. The tenement buildings generated disease and harsh living conditions which resulted in all of its inhabitants being evicted by 1935. It was fascinating to see how the other half lived, from visiting the wealthy Merchant House and other spectacular mansions, viewing how the poor lived gave a better understanding of the history of NYC. People like the Ashkenazi Jews, Africans , Germans and Italians played huge roles in the makeup of the NYC of today. I'd say the immigrants from around the globe that came to New York to experience the American Dream worked through harsh conditions yet commonly did not even get the chance to live that dream due to disease and death, are the real backbone of New York's existence.
After the tenement museum we split up in groups and ventured into Chinatown. We strolled down Canal Street; no matter how many times I come here it's always as if I'm in China. Everywhere you look there is Chinese influence. You can safely say that this part of NYC is like being in a whole different city. ENY states that the the first immigrants from China came to the US in 1868 specifically California and traveled to NY. Most of the Chinese people that migrated here were men ages 20-50 and they usually married Irish women because of their ratio of 1 Chinese woman to 200 Chinese men. I believe that since women in China are not allowed to voice their opinions or have many rights in general, they were probably expected to stay in China while the men could migrate to the US and make better lives for themselves and their families. On our journey around Chinatown we stopped at a Chinese food restaurant where we tried a pork bun. The store next door sold bubble tea and a few of us bought different flavors to try. We stopped by a religious center that had beautiful architecture. We saw people inside praying and meditating. We met with a Chinese man who was trying to sell us knock off Michael Kors bags, he had us follow him from one corner to the next and at each spot he discovered cops and was not able to have his partners bring the van around to show us the merchandise. It was hilarious how this man was determined to bring us to every hideaway spot in order to make a sale. I respected his enthusiasm and perseverance but unfortunately today was not his day to make any sales with the cops on his back at every turn. He even went into a store to buy a hat and change his shirt in order to deter the officers but they were one step ahead of him. The poor guy ended up showing us a site on his laptop where we could choose bags with the starting price of $80. I was not interested and would rather buy a real Michael Kors bag.
After our Chinatown experience we had lunch at Congee Village Chinese restaurant right around the block from the tenement museum off of Delancy Street. The food there was delicious, it was all you can eat with the choice of fried rice, baked chicken, sesame chicken, pork, Chinese broccoli, Singapore noodles, and pineapple seafood served inside of a pineapple. We met with Jim our tour guide from Harlem, he gave us a tour of the Lower Eastside. We stopped by Economy Candy on 108 Rivington Street between Ludlow and Essex Streets. I saw candies in there that I thought were extinct! This candy shop definitely brought me back to when I was a kid and the prices were affordable which made it all the better. We went to the Essex Street Market which used to be full of push carts in the early 20th century where vendors sold everything from clothes, shoes and food to home goods. This market now sells all types of foods (ENY). We visited a few synagogues and famous streets and lastly the Williamsburg Bridge which was built in 1903. This last day was great, we had a mix of cultures presented to us and saw how the other half lived. I enjoyed this day and am very happy to have experienced everything, I will definitely be visiting many of these spots again. With the help of Essential New York, I have all the information I need to visit other locations that we did not get to visit during the course which is a treat. This grand New York experience was one that I will never forget because it has awakened my interest in learning and exploring more of NYC, thanks Mike and Meritta!
On Friday October 17th, 2014, my fellow gothamites and I met up at Penn Station as usual and prepared to tour Immigrant New York. Today is our last class and I must admit that this realization was a bit saddening. As convenient as this course is being only 7 weeks, I do enjoy the tours and fun times around the city with Mike and Meritta as well as my classmates. These past 6 classes have been a cool experience. All mushiness aside, we still had an adventurous day ahead of us and it all started with a ride on the F train to Delancy Street. We arrived in the Lower East Side which is located on the southeastern part of Manhattan Island. According to Essential New York, millions of immigrants flooded into New York in the 19th century trying to escape famine, war, and corruption of their native countries. People came in from Germany, Ireland, Italy, North Africa, Spain, and the largest population of people were Ashkenazi Jews from Russia and Eastern Europe. The Ashkenazi Jews gave the neighborhood it's cultural disposition. By 1924 there were two and a half million Ashkenazi Jews in the Unites States, especially the Lower Eastside. This explains why there was such a strong Jewish influence and dominant presence in the Lower Eastside. This area was termed the most densely populated placed in the world of the 1900s.
We visited the Lower Eastside Tenement Museum located on 103 Orchard Street off of Delancey Street. The 1863 tenement was carefully and meticulously conserved and transformed into a museum for visitors to see how the Ashkenazi Jews lived in the 19th century. We had a very amicable and passionate tour guide named Berto Chavez. He showed us around the museum and introduced us to the late Lavine family. Harris Lavine and his wife Jenny Lavine lived in the tenement building dating back to 1863 with their 5 children. Their apartment consisted of a smal kitchen and one bedroom. Harris was also the owner of a sweatshop that he operated from the apartment. One could imagine how crowded and hot that tiny apartment would become especially in the summer months. Harris was a contractor who mass produced dresses, there was a presser who ironed the dresses, a baster, a sewing machine operator, and a finisher to put the final touches on the garments. There was a great deal of competition within this type of business, just across the street another sweatshop was in business. On Harris' block alone there were about 23 garment factories by 1890. They would work 60 hours a week, 10 hours a day in very poor conditions. There was poor lighting, at the time all they had were kerosene lamps. There were no bathrooms, therefore, if someone had to use the facilities, there was a chamber pot in the room for that purpose. The children would run around the apartment. Jenny had to compromise her kitchen space while cooking because the presser was sharing the space with her to iron the dresses. There was also a mattress on the side in the kitchen; must have been very annoying to anyone who wanted to sleep with all of the action going on in the house. Jenny also had to fetch water from outside for cooking and bathing and coal from elsewhere for heating. I imagine that there were many disagreements between Jenny and the workers, having to raise 5 children in a cramped apartment and share it with 5 extra people who worked with her husband must have been irritating. There were 75 dresses made in a week which were shipped to dress shops for the upper class women to purchase for $10-$13 a piece. Harris made about four cents to a dollar on each dress. After paying the workers, money left over was for rent, groceries, and whatever expenses for the kids. The work week was from Sunday to Friday and the Sabbath was observed on Saturdays. Many Jews worked for Mr. Lavine because of this advantage as opposed to working in the city where Saturday work days were mandatory. Saturday could be spent with the family and for religious observances. Another advantage of having the factory operated in the home was that, Harris was able to be with his family more and be able to see his children grow. The Lavine family ran the sweatshop for 12 years and ended up moving to Brooklyn in 1904 where they eventually became middle class and had succeeded in living their American Dream that all started in Lower Eastside NYC. We visited another apartment owned by the Rogershefski family that had a similar story to that of the Lavine family. The tenement buildings generated disease and harsh living conditions which resulted in all of its inhabitants being evicted by 1935. It was fascinating to see how the other half lived, from visiting the wealthy Merchant House and other spectacular mansions, viewing how the poor lived gave a better understanding of the history of NYC. People like the Ashkenazi Jews, Africans , Germans and Italians played huge roles in the makeup of the NYC of today. I'd say the immigrants from around the globe that came to New York to experience the American Dream worked through harsh conditions yet commonly did not even get the chance to live that dream due to disease and death, are the real backbone of New York's existence.
After the tenement museum we split up in groups and ventured into Chinatown. We strolled down Canal Street; no matter how many times I come here it's always as if I'm in China. Everywhere you look there is Chinese influence. You can safely say that this part of NYC is like being in a whole different city. ENY states that the the first immigrants from China came to the US in 1868 specifically California and traveled to NY. Most of the Chinese people that migrated here were men ages 20-50 and they usually married Irish women because of their ratio of 1 Chinese woman to 200 Chinese men. I believe that since women in China are not allowed to voice their opinions or have many rights in general, they were probably expected to stay in China while the men could migrate to the US and make better lives for themselves and their families. On our journey around Chinatown we stopped at a Chinese food restaurant where we tried a pork bun. The store next door sold bubble tea and a few of us bought different flavors to try. We stopped by a religious center that had beautiful architecture. We saw people inside praying and meditating. We met with a Chinese man who was trying to sell us knock off Michael Kors bags, he had us follow him from one corner to the next and at each spot he discovered cops and was not able to have his partners bring the van around to show us the merchandise. It was hilarious how this man was determined to bring us to every hideaway spot in order to make a sale. I respected his enthusiasm and perseverance but unfortunately today was not his day to make any sales with the cops on his back at every turn. He even went into a store to buy a hat and change his shirt in order to deter the officers but they were one step ahead of him. The poor guy ended up showing us a site on his laptop where we could choose bags with the starting price of $80. I was not interested and would rather buy a real Michael Kors bag.
After our Chinatown experience we had lunch at Congee Village Chinese restaurant right around the block from the tenement museum off of Delancy Street. The food there was delicious, it was all you can eat with the choice of fried rice, baked chicken, sesame chicken, pork, Chinese broccoli, Singapore noodles, and pineapple seafood served inside of a pineapple. We met with Jim our tour guide from Harlem, he gave us a tour of the Lower Eastside. We stopped by Economy Candy on 108 Rivington Street between Ludlow and Essex Streets. I saw candies in there that I thought were extinct! This candy shop definitely brought me back to when I was a kid and the prices were affordable which made it all the better. We went to the Essex Street Market which used to be full of push carts in the early 20th century where vendors sold everything from clothes, shoes and food to home goods. This market now sells all types of foods (ENY). We visited a few synagogues and famous streets and lastly the Williamsburg Bridge which was built in 1903. This last day was great, we had a mix of cultures presented to us and saw how the other half lived. I enjoyed this day and am very happy to have experienced everything, I will definitely be visiting many of these spots again. With the help of Essential New York, I have all the information I need to visit other locations that we did not get to visit during the course which is a treat. This grand New York experience was one that I will never forget because it has awakened my interest in learning and exploring more of NYC, thanks Mike and Meritta!
9. Final Thoughts
"New York, New York ... If I can make it there / I'll make it anywhere" ... I have a new and deeper appreciation for Mr. Sinatra's lyrics. There is such a rich and meaningful storyline behind the greatest city in the world. Stories of struggle, strain, loss, gain, hope, adversity, power, ingenuity, courage - all of the people that have come to the Big Apple from its infancy until now have contributed with their lives a chapter in the pages of its history. New York City is an immense area filled with everything under the sun to please, attract, and entertain its inhabitants and guests. I love this city and will always consider it home. Many people view NYC as a city filled with filth, rude people and recklessnes, however, our beautiful city has so much to offer and with it's great diversity and rich history, everyone can appreciate the beauty and advantages of this city. I am very grateful for this Gotham course because before it I did not have this much knowledge and exposure to the numerous people, events, and movements that impacted the history and formation of NYC. I have developed an interest in learning more about this city and becoming more familiar with it. I am no longer intimidated of taking the subway and worrying about getting lost. Having lived in Long Island all my life, I've taken for granted a city that millions around the globe have marveled at and can only dream of.
"New York, New York ... If I can make it there / I'll make it anywhere" ... I have a new and deeper appreciation for Mr. Sinatra's lyrics. There is such a rich and meaningful storyline behind the greatest city in the world. Stories of struggle, strain, loss, gain, hope, adversity, power, ingenuity, courage - all of the people that have come to the Big Apple from its infancy until now have contributed with their lives a chapter in the pages of its history. New York City is an immense area filled with everything under the sun to please, attract, and entertain its inhabitants and guests. I love this city and will always consider it home. Many people view NYC as a city filled with filth, rude people and recklessnes, however, our beautiful city has so much to offer and with it's great diversity and rich history, everyone can appreciate the beauty and advantages of this city. I am very grateful for this Gotham course because before it I did not have this much knowledge and exposure to the numerous people, events, and movements that impacted the history and formation of NYC. I have developed an interest in learning more about this city and becoming more familiar with it. I am no longer intimidated of taking the subway and worrying about getting lost. Having lived in Long Island all my life, I've taken for granted a city that millions around the globe have marveled at and can only dream of.